What Hair Type Do I Have? It's Not What You Think—Here's Why
- Jacquelyn Wilt
- 6 days ago
- 8 min read
TL;DR: Hair type = strand diameter (fine, medium, coarse). Curl pattern = shape (1A-4C). They're not the same thing. Dryness is a condition, not a type. Most people are using the wrong products because they've self-diagnosed based on how their hair feels rather than what it actually is. The solution? Stop trusting product labels and start working with a professional who assesses the whole picture."
Your hair type is determined by the diameter and structure of your individual strands—fine, medium, or coarse—not by your curl pattern, not by how dry your hair feels, and not by what a quiz on a product website tells you. It's genetic. And understanding it is the foundation of every good hair decision you'll ever make.
And after years of being obsessed and dedicated to finding the why behind all things hair, I can tell you that most people who sit in my chair have been operating under the wrong assumptions about their hair for years.
There’s a ton of misinformation out there and product brands and social influencers make millions letting you make decisions on your hair health from a place of misconception.
Let's change that.
The Biggest Misconception I See
The number one thing clients tell me when they sit in my chair? "My hair is so dry—it must be coarse. But dryness is a condition, not a hair type. Fine hair can be dry. Medium-textured hair can be dry. Coarse hair can be dry. The feeling of dryness doesn't automatically mean you have a coarse texture—it means something is going on with the state of your hair, not the structure of it. And here's where it gets even more confusing: curl pattern and hair type are not the same thing either.
That 1A-4C chart you've seen everywhere? It describes the curl pattern—the shape your hair takes, the way it bends. It doesn't tell you anything about your hair's texture, diameter, density, porosity, or elasticity. Someone can have a tight curl pattern and still have fine hair. Someone can have loose waves and coarse strands. The two exist independently.
A lot of people equate curlier textures with coarser hair—and while that's sometimes true, it's not a rule. When you make assumptions based on curl pattern alone, you end up using products and routines that don't serve your whole hair needs.Hair Type Is a Spectrum
Think of hair texture—the actual diameter and structure of each strand—as a spectrum. On one end, you have super fine hair. On the other, super coarse. Most people fall somewhere in between, leaning slightly one way or the other.
Here's what most people don't realize: both extremes are prone to breakage—just for different reasons.
Fine hair lacks structure. It's often missing parts of its cortex—the backbone of the strand. The cortex is the middle layer that gives hair its strength, texture, and color. I like to describe fine hair as an overcooked noodle: very flexible, but dissolves easily. It absorbs water quickly, but that water leaves just as fast. It doesn't hold shape well, gets weighed down by heavy products, and can be overworked without much effort.
Coarse hair lacks moisture. The strand itself is bigger and denser, but it has a harder time retaining hydration. The cuticle layer is thicker, making it difficult for moisture to penetrate. Think of coarse hair like an old sponge that's been sitting dry on the sink: it still has the capacity to hold the same amount of water, but you have to slowly reintroduce moisture for it to absorb. When coarse hair gets too dry, it becomes brittle and snaps—often at weak points created by heat styling and chemical ,color, which is why you'll see coarse hair that struggles to grow long.
It breaks like the branches of a tree at its most vulnerable spots. The hair types that live in the middle have the best of both worlds: enough structure to be resilient, enough flexibility to retain moisture and shape. But even medium-textured hair leans one direction or the other, and understanding which way yours leans determines how you should care for it.
What I Actually Assess in a Consultation
When a client sits in my chair, I don't pull out a chart. I do a visual assessment first—looking at the hair's diameter, its overall appearance. Then I use my hands, feeling the strands from root to end, noting any areas where the texture changes or feels inconsistent. I evaluate how easily the hair bends, whether there are areas of breakage, how it responds to tension.
I ask questions: What are you doing to your hair at home? What products are you using? What services have you had done? How do you style it? Has your stress level increased or been prolonged?
I'm looking at the whole picture—curl pattern is one piece, but so is texture, density, porosity, elasticity, and condition. Most importantly, I'm looking at what's actually happening versus what genetics gave you, because those are often two very different things.
How Damage, Products, and Habits Mask Your True Hair Type
Here's something that surprises a lot of clients: your hair right now might not reflect your actual hair type. When we damage hair—through heat, chemical processing, mechanical stress—we put holes in the strand. Picture Swiss cheese. The more we eat away at the solid structure, the weaker the hair becomes.
Even someone with fine-medium-textured hair can end up with strands that feel coarse and brittle if they've been over-processed. The damage mimics some of the defining traits coarseness, dull, dry, brittle but it's actually degradation.
Product buildup creates a different problem. When heavy products coat the hair—waxes, silicones, thick creams—they can create a barrier that blocks moisture from getting in. I describe it like pouring candle wax on a surface: it looks shiny, water cant remove it, the water just rolls off, soap or surfactants only slightly wear it down.
That barrier might give your hair a temporary appearance of health—smooth and glossy on the outside—while actually blocking moisture from entering to cuticle layer dehydrating the strand underneath.This is where clarifying comes in. Clarifying is like shampooing your carpets—you don't do it every day, but you do it when you need a deep clean.
Your regular shampoo handles the surface-level maintenance; clarifying takes away the deep buildup that's accumulated over time. The more products you layer on, and days you extend between wash days, the more often you'll need to clarify.
Then there's the issue of using the wrong routine entirely. Hair products are often marketed as "good" or "bad" for this hair or that curl, not "this is for this specific problem." A moisturizing product might be excellent—but if your hair isn't actually deficient in moisture, you're not solving anything.
I can't count the number of clients who've told me their hair is dry when what I'm actually seeing is damage, or a styling method that's creating frizz, or buildup that's preventing anything from getting through.
The Problem with How Products Are Marketed
This is where I get a little frustrated with haircare brands. If you walked into any major beauty retailer right now and told them your hair is dry, they'd walk you straight to their most "popular"—meaning well-advertised—moisturizing products and tell you this is exactly what you need.
No assessment. No questions about your hair's actual structure, your history, your habits. Just a recommendation based on a single word you used to describe how your hair feels. The same thing happens with those online companies that promise a "custom" regimen based on a questionnaire.
They use AI matching tool to pair you with the "right products"—but here's the thing: they're only matching you to products within their own line. Can any single product line truly have something perfect for everyone? In my opinion, no. But those quizzes will always find you a match. All paths lead to a sale.
The issue with both of these scenarios—without an expert eye and an understanding of the education gap most people experience—they rely entirely on their customer interpreting their own hair correctly.
If you don't know that dryness isn't the same as coarseness, or that your frizz might be a styling issue rather than a moisture issue, or that your hair type might be masked by years of the wrong routine, you're going to keep buying products that don't solve the actual problem.
Product lines take a concept—curly hair, damaged hair, thinning hair—and generalize it in a way that lets them sell to the widest possible audience. If you have curly hair, they assume you have coarse texture, so they give you heavy, rich formulas. If you have thinning hair, they assume your strands are fine, so they give you lightweight formulas.
But a head of thinning hair could be made up of coarse strands or fine strands. A head of curly hair could be fine-textured curls drowning in products that are way too heavy. Something that gets overlooked: in order for hair to hold moisture, it needs to be strong. If your hair is damaged moisture won't be retained. It's like trying to pick up water with a net.
You can pour in all the hydrating products you want, but if the structure isn't there to hold it, that moisture is going right back out again. Curly hair products tend to be moisture-focused, but they often skip the repair step that makes moisture retention possible.
On the flip side, if you overcorrect with protein and strengthening treatments, hair can become stiff and brittle—mimicking coarse texture even when it's not. Balance is everything.
Questions to Ask Yourself Before Answering Question "What Hair Type Do I Have"
What have I been doing to my hair that might be changing its texture? Heat tools, chemical services, even the way you brush or dry your hair—all of it leaves a mark. Consider what habits might be altering how your hair looks and feels.
What does my new growth look like compared to my ends? This is one of the most telling assessments. The hair growing out of your scalp is your true texture. The hair at your ends has been through months or years of wear. Comparing the two shows you what your hair actually is versus what it's become.
What beliefs might be standing in my way? Do you assume that "natural" products are automatically better? Do you believe that chemicals are always bad? Sometimes the right solution requires chemistry—and sometimes "natural" products are creating the buildup or deficiency you're fighting against.
Be willing to question what you've accepted as truth and know just because you’ve read it, heard it, or an opinion is popular that doesn't make it right.
What You Should Take Away
Stop trusting the back of the bottle. Those labels are written to sell products to as many people as possible—not to solve your specific hair's needs.
If you're working with a stylist who isn't having an open dialogue with you—about what your hair needs, how to support it at home, and why changes are happening—it might be time to find someone who will.
Every color service, every chemical treatment, every styling choice leaves a lasting mark.
Genetics, hormones, and nutrient deficiencies are simultaneously working for and against you achieving the hair you've been dreaming of.
With every new process, new color, a new style, a new process—a new conversation needs to happen about how you care for your hair.
Your routine shouldn't stay static—your hair is evolving—so should your routine
Your hair is telling a story. Make sure you're partnering with someone who can help you write the chapters ahead. Your healthiest hair is waiting on the other side.
Key Takeaways
Hair type ≠ curl pattern
Dryness is a condition, not a type
Your current hair might not reflect your true type
Product marketing relies on you misdiagnosing yourself
This requires three things from you: commitment to the process, consistency with your home care, and communication with your stylist.
Ready to finally understand your hair? Book a consultation at Wild Soul Salon & Head Spa, Denver's only private luxury hair salon where intentional whole hair care strategies are made. Together, we'll assess your hair's true type, condition, and needs—and build a plan that actually works for you. Book your appointment today!
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